dimecres, 29 de juliol del 2009

Farewell Iran. Can I have a vodka please???

Hey lads, we made it to Armenia, and we are suffering a big culture shock as we still have our mind in Iran! A mere 50 meters separate two countries totally opposed, two different worlds and ways of living or thinking. From women with chador head-to-toe to girls with mini-mini skirts, from mosques to churches, from chay to plenty vodka and a long etc...
Crossing the bridge from Iran to Armenia through the most quiet border we have ever seen was a big change guys! Never before we walked so little to see that much difference. We felt kind of weird when we made it to the Armenian border, where Nuria got to be Nuria again after removing her head-scarf and were received by girls in mini-skirts, coffee and vodka...
We feel that we left Iran in the right moment, it is a country that sucks a lot of energy from the travellers, it is demanding, challenging and intense, and lately we were struggling to cope with all the things that were happening. Our state of mind was not the best, and needed some changes. Having said that, it has been a memorable experience, so rewarding and positive, and we feel kind of privileged for having been there, and lived what we lived and met who we met!!! We have been in Iran around 40 days, and almost all of them entail a great deal of emotions and unforgettable moments. Probably it is the most difficult country where we have travelled, for many reasons, but on the same time is one of the most fulfilling and unique. It will be always remembered!!!
Iran is the country where we have seen less tourists, but during the last days we just saw a couple. The government seems determined to destroy the small business the country does with tourism as they are denying many visa extensions requests and new visa applications as it happen to people we know. A big shame, but it seems that their main target is to close the doors even more and to cut themselves off.
From Rasht, the most liberal city we have seen we went to Masuleh, a stepped mountain village full of character and local tourists picnicking around. Then we made it up North to Kaleybar, a rocky town with an impressive castle and beautiful surroundings. Amazing mountains everywhere, nomads around and nice walks to sample. And from there we enjoyed one of the most incredible rides we have ever had. 150Km from Kaleybar to Norduz, at the border, through an unspoiled landscape of barren huge mountains, green fields, nomads and the mythic Aras river where Noe's arch sailed... Honestly lads, it is so beautiful, although the river separates two different realities. On one side, the peaceful Iranian side, on the other the Armenia-Azerbaijan side torn apart by the 89-94 war. This side is lifeless, with abandoned villages and many destruction still visible.
We can say we left Iran with a real Iranian style... it could not been easy our last day there, as the taxi had to break down 3 times and delayed the journey from 3 to 8 hours...Still, we kind of learnt to accept the things as they come in Iran.
Our first impression in Armenia was WOW, this place is destroyed!!! We entered through a little populated area and the first sights were abandoned buildings and factories, dilapidated apartments, cars debris everywhere and the typical soviet-era architecture. As a contrast the landscape is just mesmerising, jaw-dropping and so mountainous. Imposing mountain ranges, green valleys, rivers and ancient villages entertained us all the way up to Yerevan, the capital. Again, the mighty Mt. Ararat came to sight! Visible from at least 150Km away, just incredible!!!
Yerevan, is like a different place. It has nothing to do with the almost abandoned country-side villages. Although the outskirts are quite depressive, the city centre is very lively, and cosmopolitan. It is a contrast to see the most fashionable shops in here and expensive cars, when just 20 Km away you see people living in aluminium huts, rotten caravans or falling apartments.
So far so good lads!!! We are happy to be here and ready to enjoy it!!! We do not really have a plan as we do not have a travel-guide. We will improvise and see how it goes...But hey, no more Kebabs! We already spotted Arab, Thai and Indian restaurants here...Time to put some kg's and treat ourselves...
All the best!!! Kisses and hugs!